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This blog is for other travellers looking to make this journey as there doesn’t seem to be much / any info online. 
1. Mompox > Bodega: collectivo Take a shared taxi from near Plaza Bolivar. 40/45 mins and around $13,000 per person: you could probably haggle this down more but we weren’t able to. 

The driver eyeballed me in the rear view mirror and seemed to try his hardest to run over stray dogs on the road, thankfully unsuccesful. 

2. Bodega > Magangué: chalupa watertaxi Small speedboat for 20 mins, $8,000 per person fixed price. 

It’s a small boat and we squeeze in and tug life jackets on, feel the slap of the water on the bottom of the boat. There is a glamorous girl next to me who whatsapps selfies to her boyfriend for the journey. 

3. Magangué > Sincilejo: collectivo 1.5 hours, $15,000 per person (negotiated down from $20,000) 

The guy in the passenger seat with a guitar case chats to us about the UK in a mixture of Spanish and bit of English. He likes British bands he says, “Iron Maiden” and then “Coldplay” and gestures to Phil’s face. Moz is a Chris Martin look alike it seems. 

4. Sincilejo > San Onofre: buseta 1.5 hour, $9,000 each, fixed price. Walk up the hill for 10 mins to the buseta stop. 

We had been dropped off in the Sincilejo bus station and eventually work out with the help of a man selling oranges that we’re in the wrong place; we need to be up the road. We put our heavy bags on and trek up the hill, turning every so often to see the orange seller pushing his cart up the road behind us, gesturing us with a wave of his hand to keep on going. He won’t take any change from me so we buy some oranges from him for the journey and he waits by the bus to give us a smiley thumbs up through the window when we sees we’re off. 

5. San Onofre > Rincon del Mar: motorbike 20 mins, $7/8,000 per person (guys will try to charge $10,000) 

Wind in my hair, clinging on to the motorbike guy with my knees, smiling at Moz as his bike passes us, dusty village then the blue burst of the sea! 

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